About the Tour

"The Great Embassy was one of the two or three overwhelming events in Peter's life" - Robert Massie

Peter's journey

Aged 24, Peter I of Russia set off from Moscow on his 'OE' (overseas experience) on 20 March 1697.  According to the protocol devised for what was known as The Great Embassy, the 6'7'' Tsar of Russia would travel incognito, thereby testing the ingenuity of the various hosts he would encounter en route.  Peter first visited the ancient Russian cities of Novgorod and Pskov, before continuing to Riga, where his welcome by the Swedish governor, Eric Dahlberg, due to a series of misunderstandings, was not considered sufficiently warm.  This was the start of Peter's grudge against the Swedes.  Furthermore Peter and his retinue of 300 were forced to wait in Riga for seven days while they waited for the ice on the Daugava to melt. 

 

Peter was accorded much better treatment in the Duchy of Courland by its ruler Duke Frederick Casimir, who ruled from his capital at Mitau (Jelgava).  Knowing Peter's love of sailing the Duke chartered a yacht to convey him to Koenigsberg, where he was met by the Elector of Brandenburg, Frederick III.  Peter stayed in Koenigsberg for seven weeks before continuing in late summer towards his destination of Amsterdam.

 

Peter travelled incognito through Berlin, but was intercepted in Koppenbruegge, near Hameln, by the widowed Sophia, Electress of Hannover, and her daughter Sophie Charlotte, Electress of Brandenburg.  Following the soiree which the Electresses obliged Peter to attend, news of the Tsar and his visit spread rapidly throughout Europe.  He eventually visited Amsterdam, London, Dresden and Vienna, taking eighteen months to complete his journey. 

 

Peter's ability to absorb vast amounts of knowledge during his OE, combined with his boundless energy and the huge wealth at his disposal could only mean one thing on his return - Russia would never be the same.

 

The 2011 study tour itinerary

St Petersburg, Russia's second city and former imperial capital was inspired by the vision and energy of Peter I (the Great).  Brutal enforcement of the tsar's edicts ensured that this gorgeous, unearthly city sprang up out of the northern marshes in no time at all, located right out on the 'fingernail of Russia', on territory that was recognised as a Swedish possession at that time.  This city, called Leningrad during much of the 20th century, became a byword for splendour and culture, industry and autocracy in the three centuries of its existence.

 

The study tour will start with six full days in St Petersburg, before heading south to the ancient city of Novgorod.  From Novgorod, the route is inspired by Peter's actual journey. From Pskov, we will visit the Caves Monastery at Pechory, on the Estonian border. Peter visited this place during the Great Northern War - waged by him to gain access for Russia to the Baltic Sea. En route to Tallinn, we'll visit the University of Tartu (former Dorpat), which educated the sons of the Baltic German nobility, whose members played such an important role in the ruling of Russia during the 18th century. Apart from its mediaeval charm, Tallinn's importance in the earliest days of Great Northern War between Sweden and Russia makes it an unmissable stop on the itinerary.

 

Riga was the obvious choice as capital of independent Latvia, but has long been a strategically-placed Baltic entrepot.  In Peter's time it was a Swedish-ruled territory on the shores of the 'Swedish Lake', the Baltic Sea.  Although Peter was not given as warm a welcome by the Swedish governor as he felt was due him, the Latvian capital is much more welcoming to visitors in the 21st century.  Nor will it be necessary to wait for the ice on the river Daugava to melt before we can progress into the former Duchy of Courland.  Jelgava (Mitau) was the capital of the semi-independent duchy; we will visit the nearby summer palace of Anna Ioannovna, Peter's niece at Rundale.  Anna was virtually exiled to Courland but managed to claim the Russian throne in 1730, after the death of Peter's second wife, Catherine, who was herself originally an illiterate serving wench from Courland.

 

From Rundale we continue to Lithuania's Baltic coast and to Klaipeda, the former German city state of Memel, which at one time marked the northeasternmost extent of the German territories.  From there we will take the brief ferry ride to the northernmost tip of the Spit of Courland, a sand dune that runs for over 100 km along the Baltic coast.  Lent a yacht by the Duke of Courland, Peter travelled along the coast, parallel with the Spit.  We'll have time to learn about the distinctive nature of the spit before crossing the border to the Kaliningrad region, the Russian exclave that is separated from the main part of Russia by Lithuania and Belarus.  The Kaliningrad region, sometimes dubbed the 'fourth Baltic state' is the northern third of the former East Prussia, which came into Soviet possession in 1945.  Peter was warmly welcomed to the ancient Prussian capital by Frederick William, Elector of Brandenburg, who saw in Peter a potential ally against the Swedes. 

 

To his great disappointment, political tensions prevented Peter realising his dream of travelling by sea to Amsterdam, so he was obliged to travel by carriage.  Leaving Koenigsberg, Peter crossed northern Poland and managed to pass through Berlin incognito.  We'll take the liberty of travelling by train to Gdansk (formerly Danzig), before continuing west through Pomorze (West Pomerania) to Szczecin (formerly Stettin), birthplace of Catherine the Great, which was Berlin's seaport during the 19th century.  Our study tour ends in another stunning former imperial capital - Berlin.  After three nights in Berlin, participants may choose to return to New Zealand or to spend additional days acquainting themselves with the German capital.

 

 

Itinerary - Friday 2 to Friday 30 September 2011

Meals provided where specified by (B) breakfast, (L) lunch and/or (D) dinner

Friday 2 September: in transit

Depart Wellington

Saturday 3 September: St Petersburg

Arrive in St. Petersburg, transfer to hotel

Note: The order of visits in St Petersburg may be changed to optimise the experience.

Sunday 4 September: St Petersburg

Our introductory city tour is by coach and on foot, and includes visits to the fortress of SS Peter and Paul and its early 18th century cathedral, the original cottage of Peter the Great and the magnificent St Isaac's Cathedral. (B)

Monday 5 September: St Petersburg

This morning we visit one of Europe's most elegant private homes - the Yusupov Palace. In its basement the 'mad monk' Grigory Rasputin met his macabre end. The afternoon is dedicated to Russian art - at the Russian Museum, located on the Square of Arts. (B)

Tuesday 6 September: St Petersburg

Today is dedicated to the famous Hermitage museum, a treasure of mainly Western art, housed in an ensemble of five palaces on the embankment of the Neva. An extensive guided tour will be followed by free time in the museum. This evening we will enjoy a lively Russian folklore show followed by dinner in a Russian restaurant. (B, D)

Wednesday 7 September: St Petersburg

The beautiful gardens of Peterhof Palace are our destination today - by hydrofoil along the Gulf of Finland. We will make an inside visit to the Monplaisir Palace, the cosy home of Peter and his spouse, later Empress, Catherine. This evening we will enjoy an excursion to the St Petersburg Circus. (B)

Thursday 8 September: St Petersburg

A day at leisure to explore St Petersburg on your own. This evening we meet for for a ballet performance. (B)

Friday 9 September: St Petersburg

Our focus today is the royal resort towns of Pushkin and Pavlovsk. First we visit the splendid Catherine Palace at the town of Pushkin - dedicated to Empress Catherine I by her daughter Elizabeth. In the afternoon we visit the neo-classical Pavlovsk Palace, which was home to Emperor Paul and his talented and cultivated consort Empress Maria Fedorovna. After the palace visits there will be a chance to stroll in the grounds of Pavlovsk park before enjoying dinner in a rustic restaurant with entertainment, wine and vodka. (B, D)

Saturday 10 September: St Petersburg - Novgorod

A morning departure via picturesque countryside takes us to Novgorod, one of Russia's most ancient cities. The afternoon will be devoted to sightseeing of the Novgorod Kremlin or 'Detinets' (fortress) in the grounds of which is located one of Russia's oldest churches - St Sophia's - which was built in the mid-11th century. (B, D)

Sunday 11 September: Novgorod - Pskov

Novgorod sightseeing continues with a visit to the Monastery of St George and the Museum of Wooden Architecture. After lunch, following the route Peter the Great took in 1697, we head west to historic Pskov, the only other significant Russian city not dominated by the Tatar-Mongols. (B, L, D)

Monday 12 September: Pskov

Pskov is associated with the adoption of Christianity in Russia - the Pskovian princess Olga was the first high-ranking figure to abandon paganism, and her son Vladimir, who was born nearby, converted Russia to Christianity in 988. Our tour of Pskov takes in the Kremlin and the Museum of Applied Art in the Pogankin Chambers. Free time in the afternoon. (B)

Tuesday 13 September: Pskov - Izborsk - Pechory - Tartu

Departing Pskov we take in the quaint fortress of Izborsk (with picnic lunch) and then visit the Assumption Monastery of the Caves at Pechory (subject to approval by the archimandrite). Peter the Great travelled directly southwest to Riga but we will take a detour to Estonia. From Pechory it is only a short distance to the Estonian border. After border formalities we continue to Tartu, Estonia's oldest and second-largest city, founded at least by the 7th century. (B, L)

Wednesday 14 September: Tartu - Tallinn

Morning sightseeing in Tartu includes a walk in the old town including to the precinct of Tartu University (formerly Dorpat University), which was founded in 1632 by Swedish King Gustav II Adolf. During Estonia's long domination by the Baltic Germans, Dorpat University was the major source of the able Baltic German administrators who rose to high rank in the Russian Empire from the 18th century until 1914. Tartu is still a thriving university town. After lunch we head for the thriving Estonian capital and enjoy a walking tour of the Old Town on arrival. (B)

Thursday 15 September: Tallinn

Tallinn sightseeing includes the seaside district of Pirita, the St Birgitte convent, the venue of the Estonian Song Festivals and the modest home that Peter lived in when he spent time in Tallinn. (B)

Friday 16 September: Tallinn - Riga

Heading south from Tallinn we'll soon find ourselves at the seaside town of Parnu, with free time for a stroll along the main street and time for lunch. Having acquainted ourselves with some of the charms of Estonia we will continue south on the modern 'Via Baltica' to rejoin Peter's route in Riga, the Latvian capital.

Saturday 17 September: Riga

Riga sightseeing includes a walking tour of the old town, a visit to Europe's largest indoor market (located in old zeppelin hangars) complete with an opportunity to taste some local products, and of course a visit to the city's fortress. Peter the Great's visit to Riga proved a challenge for all concerned: despite his 6'7'' stature Peter was officially travelling 'incognito'. His desire to thoroughly investigate the fortress caused consternation to his host, the Swedish governor. Free time in the afternoon (B)

Sunday 18 September: Riga - Rundale - Hill of Crosses - Klaipeda

As soon as we cross the mighty Daugava River, we'll find ourselves in the former Duchy of Courland (Kurzeme in Latvian). It's only a short distance to Rundale, the lavish summer palace built by Duke Ernst von Buehren, to a design by Bartolomeo Rastrelli. After crossing the Lithuanian border we'll stop at the unusual and mysterious Hill of Crosses before continuing across the Lithuanian plains to Klaipeda on the Baltic coast. (B, L, D)

Monday 19 September: Klaipeda - Spit of Courland

For centuries Klaipeda was 'Memel', the most northerly city in the German empire. Administered by the French in the aftermath of WWI, it was awarded to Lithuania in 1923, giving the newly independent nation access to the sea. After morning sightseeing we'll take the ferry across to the northern tip of the 100km-long Spit of Courland. The Spit is shared by Russia and Lithuania and each has a national park to protect the fragile environment. We'll have time to visit the Lithuanian Sea Museum, as well as the village of Juodkrante, before arriving at Nida, the small town where German writer Thomas Mann owned a holiday home. (B, D)

Tuesday 20 September: Spit of Courland - Kaliningrad

After border formalities we'll find ourselves in the Kaliningrad exclave, which is the northern part of the former East Prussia, annexed by the Soviet Union in 1945. Before arriving in Kaliningrad we'll have time to visit the Kurshkaya Kosa National Park, including the ornithological station. We'll have lunch on the shore of the Spit before continuing to Zelenogradsk, a dilapidated former Prussian resort town. Evening arrival in busy Kaliningrad city (pop. approx 500,000) - former Koenigsberg, capital of Ducal Prussia 1701-1945. (B, L)

Wednesday 21 September: Kaliningrad

Peter sailed from Riga to Koenigsberg and spent several weeks there during the summer of 1697. We will spend today visiting some of the intriguing parts of the Samland peninsula, including Yantarniy - the world's largest amber mine - and Svetlogorsk - the former Prussian resort town known as Rauschen. (B, L)

Thursday 22 September: Kaliningrad - Gdansk

Free time this morning to explore Kaliningrad. This afternoon's city tour will take us to the cathedral (1333) which contains the mausoleum of philosopher Immanuel Kant, Peter's Gate Museum, the Amalienau district and a guided tour to Fort No.1, which was one of the forts that were supposed to make Koenigsberg invincible. Peter travelled by carriage via Berlin to Amsterdam. We'’ll take the evening train to Gdansk. (B)

Friday 23 September: Gdansk

For centuries Gdansk was famous as the wealthy Hanseatic city of Danzig, which was allocated to Poland at the end of World War II. It was wrecked by Allied bombing but has been lovingly restored by the Poles.  Full-day sightseeing of the 'Tri-City' will also take us to the neighbouring resort town of Sopot and the modern city of Gdynia, where we'll learn about the birthplace of the Solidarity movement, which famously contributed to the demise of Soviet hegemony in Eastern Europe. (B)

Saturday 24 September: Gdansk - Szczecin

A free morning in Gdansk then we board the local train that travels across Kashubia and Pomerania to Szczecin, in the northwestern corner of Poland. Transfer to Szczecin hotel upon arrival. (B)

Sunday 25 September: Szczecin - Berlin

Known as Stettin under Prussian rule, Szczecin was Berlin's seaport and in earlier times it was the seat of the Pomeranian Dukes. The future Empress Catherine II ('the Great') was born in the castle here, which we'll visit. In the afternoon the final leg of our journey leads us to the German capital Berlin, which is one of Europe's most exciting cities. (B)

Monday 26 September: Berlin

Today's highlight is a visit to nearby Potsdam, capital of Brandenburg state. We'll visit Frederick the Great's San Souci Palace and learn more about this famous monarch, who was very nearly defeated by the Russian Empress Elizabeth - Peter's daughter. (B)

Tuesday 27 September: Berlin

This morning we'll enjoy a three-hour coach tour of Berlin, taking in the Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden and the Kurfurstendamm. The afternoon is free for shopping, relaxing or visiting Berlin's famous museums. (B)

Wednesday 28 September - Friday 30 September

Return travel to New Zealand.

 

Teacher Bio

Martin Boswell worked as a tour director for major international tour companies for twelve years.   He specialised in Scandinavia and Russia, but has worked in all European countries as well as the South Pacific.  He completed a BA in Modern Languages at Victoria University, speaks fluent Russian, and has led over 40 tours to Russia.  Martin conducted the inaugural Russia study tour for Victoria University Community Continuing Education in 2008.